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The Ultimate Guide to Travelling Around Europe

PlacesUpdated 13 min read
Train travelling through Europe

The route looks sensible on the screen. Rome, then Florence, then Venice, Vienna, Prague and Berlin, one neat line across the continent. Then the details arrive: the train from Venice to Vienna runs through the Alps and takes most of a day, the border crossing involves a change at a small junction, and the hotel in Prague has a late arrival rule you only notice at midnight. Europe is easy to travel, but only if you plan the joins between places as carefully as the places themselves.

This guide is about those joins. It explains how entry and border rules work in general terms, which route shapes suit which kind of trip, how to choose between trains, flights, buses and ferries, and where multi-country trips most often go wrong.

Low angle view of the iconic Colosseum in Rome, Italy showcasing ancient Roman architecture.

Why distances on the map mislead

Europe looks compact because the countries are small, but the useful measure is not kilometres. It is the number of changes, the kind of terrain and the time of day you arrive.

A flat run such as Amsterdam to Cologne or Paris to Brussels behaves like a commute. A line that crosses the Alps, the Pyrenees or the Dinaric mountains behind the Adriatic coast behaves like an expedition, because trains slow down, connections thin out and a missed link can cost an evening. Island hops, such as Naples to Sicily or Athens to the Cyclades, depend on ferry timetables that do not bend for your schedule.

Three ideas keep a plan honest:

  • Count travel days, not travel hours. A day with a long transfer is a half-lost day once you add packing, checking out and finding the new hotel.
  • Look at the geography, not the dots. Mountains, seas and rivers decide where fast lines exist. If two cities are close on the map but separated by a range, check how the route actually runs.
  • Stay at least two nights in most places. One-night stops make sense only on a corridor where the journey itself is the attraction.

Europe also rewards a plan that does less. The reasons people give for coming at all, covered in Four Great Reasons to Visit Europe, mostly come down to density: a lot of distinct places within reach of each other. That only pays off if you leave time to look at what you came for.

Borders, passports and the Schengen idea

Most of continental Europe is covered by the Schengen Area, an arrangement in which participating countries have removed routine passport checks between each other. In practice you can drive or take a train from, say, France into Italy or Germany into Austria and see no border post at all. You enter the area once, through the first country, and then move around inside it.

Several things to understand about this idea, without relying on any particular rule:

  • Not every European country is in it. Some EU members are outside, and several non-EU countries are inside. The United Kingdom, Ireland and a number of Balkan and eastern European states have their own arrangements, and moving between a Schengen and a non-Schengen country usually means a real border check.
  • Checks can still appear. Countries can reintroduce temporary controls, and airports, ferry ports and some road crossings check identity regardless. Always carry your passport, even on routes where nobody ever asks for it.
  • Time limits apply to the area as a whole. Visitors from outside Europe are generally limited in how long they can stay across the whole zone, not country by country. A long trip that dips in and out of Schengen countries needs planning against that limit.
  • Entry systems and fees are changing. Pre-travel authorisations and electronic entry registration have been introduced or planned for the area. Whether you need one, what it costs and how long it lasts depends on your nationality and the date.

The rules that matter most to you, namely visa requirements, permitted length of stay, passport validity, any pre-travel authorisation and what a border officer may ask for, change often and differ by nationality. Check the official government and border-agency websites of the first country you will enter, and again of any country outside Schengen on your route, shortly before you book. Do not trust a blog, including this one, for the figures.

Two practical points are less likely to change. First, keep your passport reachable on night trains and buses, where staff or officers sometimes collect or inspect documents. Second, check which currency each country uses before you cross. The euro is shared by many, but not all, countries, and a few popular destinations keep their own money. Carry a way to pay that works in each place and avoid exchanging cash at airport or station counters.

The Mediterranean loop: Italy, the Adriatic and the south

The classic shape for a first big trip is a loop around the Mediterranean, because the coastline is a natural corridor and the cities along it were built to be reached by sea.

A common version starts in Rome and heads north through Florence and Bologna to Venice, with a high-speed line doing most of the work. From Venice you can turn inland toward the Alps and Vienna, or follow the Adriatic south. Trieste, on the northern Adriatic, is a gateway to Slovenia and Croatia, and from there Ljubljana, the Istrian peninsula and the Dalmatian coast with Split and Dubrovnik form a natural chain. Distances along the Dalmatian coast are deceptive because the road follows indented shore and islands. Buses are frequent along the main stretch, rail is thin or absent in places, and ferries link the offshore islands, so plan on the road and the sea, not the track.

The other direction runs south from Rome to Naples, the Amalfi Coast and the Bay of Naples, with onward ferries to Sicily, Sardinia or the Aeolian Islands. Southern Italy rewards slow travel. Regional trains are cheap and workable but not fast, and ferries to the islands vary in speed and in season, so the journey time you saw last summer may not apply.

West of Italy, the loop continues along the Riviera into Provence, Barcelona and the Catalan coast, then down toward Valencia and Andalusia. High-speed rail links Barcelona with Madrid and Madrid with Seville, and the coastal stretch between Barcelona and Valencia is easy by train. Provence, by contrast, is better with a car or with a plan built around a few bases such as Avignon, Arles and Aix-en-Provence. Cities like Seville slot into the south of the loop for a few days of heat, courtyards and late dinners.

The trade-off of the Mediterranean loop is crowds and heat. The towns on the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre in Liguria, the old centre of Dubrovnik and the canals of Venice fill up in summer to the point where the experience changes. A loop in spring or autumn gets you the same places with space to walk.

Picturesque view of Venice's historic canals and architecture in warm sunlight.

Central Europe, the Atlantic edge and the north

The Mediterranean is not the only logic. Three other corridors work well, each with a different character.

The central European rail line

Central Europe is the easiest region to cross by train, because capitals sit on a loose line of well-served routes. A common shape runs Berlin, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and sometimes on to Bratislava, Kraków or Ljubljana. Berlin to Prague follows the Elbe valley, which is one of the more scenic stretches. Vienna and Budapest sit close enough along the Danube to make a comfortable pair, and Bratislava is a short hop between them. Munich, Salzburg and the lakes of the Salzkammergut fit in as an Alpine detour if you want mountains without going as far as Switzerland.

This region is where eastern cities are often cheaper and quieter than western ones, and where a lot of travellers find places they had not planned for. If your list is full of obvious names, 3 Of Europe's Hidden Gems That You Need To Visit is a good place to look for something less crowded to add along this line.

The Atlantic edge

Portugal and Spain along the Atlantic are a different trip: Lisbon, Porto, the Douro valley, Galicia and the Basque coast, with the Camino pilgrim routes around Santiago de Compostela. The rail line between Lisbon and Porto is straightforward, but crossing into Spain or reaching smaller towns often means buses or hire cars. This corridor suits travellers who want food and coast without the crowds of the Mediterranean in high summer. From here, a short flight or a long rail journey connects you onward to Paris, London or Madrid.

The Alps and the north

Switzerland, Austria and northern Italy form a self-contained mountain region with famous scenic railways, lake steamers and cable cars. Distances are short but the terrain is steep, so travel times are longer than the map suggests, and many mountain transport services pause or reduce in the shoulder seasons. Check what is running before you commit to a mountain pass or a summit.

North of the Baltic and the North Sea, the shape changes again. Copenhagen, Gothenburg and Oslo are linked by rail and road, and Stockholm connects by rail and by sea. The Baltic capitals of Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius form a chain of old towns reached largely by bus and by ferry from Helsinki. Norway's fjords are the exception to the rule that Europe is easy: a fjord journey is a combination of ferries, trains and buses that has to be assembled from separate timetables, and distances are far longer than they look.

Wide view of Berlin's Brandenburg Gate and TV Tower on a clear day.

Trains, flights, buses and ferries: choosing the right one

No mode of transport wins everywhere. The choice depends on what the route looks like and what kind of day you want.

Trains

Trains are the best option for city pairs within a few hours of each other. They run from centre to centre, there is no security queue and the journey itself is part of the trip. High-speed lines connect the major cities of France, Italy, Spain, Germany and the Netherlands, while slower regional trains fill in the gaps.

Three habits help. Book seats for high-speed and international services, since some require reservations and sell out. Buy as early as the timetable opens if you want the cheapest tickets, because advance fares and last-minute fares can differ widely. And do not assume a rail pass is cheaper. Whether a pass saves money depends on how many long journeys you make, and many routes are cheaper as point-to-point tickets. Work out the journeys you actually plan, compare them to the pass terms on the official provider website, and note any reservation supplements the pass does not cover.

Night trains exist on some corridors and save a hotel night, but they are fewer than they once were, and availability changes. Treat them as a bonus, not a foundation.

Flights

Flying earns its place on long hops that trains cannot match: London to Athens, Lisbon to Warsaw, or anywhere to an island or the far north. The real cost is rarely the fare. Count the transfer to the airport, the time before departure, the baggage rules and the journey from the arrival airport to the city. Many budget routes use secondary airports far from the places they name, and a cheap flight can lose its advantage on the bus ride.

If you fly between several countries, read the carry-on rules for each fare before you pack. A bag that fits one fare can be too large for another.

Buses

Long-distance coaches fill the gaps where rail is thin, such as the Dalmatian coast, parts of the Balkans, the Baltic states and cross-border links in central and eastern Europe. They are slower and less glamorous, but they reach places trains do not and cost less. Buy tickets early on busy routes, and note where the coach actually stops, because bus stations are sometimes far from the old town.

Ferries

Ferries are a means of transport as much as a way of seeing the coast. The short crossing from Dover to Calais links Britain with France, and Channel services also run to other ports. Other major crossings include the Baltic routes linking Stockholm, Helsinki, Tallinn and Riga, the North Sea links from Britain to the Netherlands and Scandinavia, and the Mediterranean routes joining mainland Italy, Sardinia, Corsica and Sicily. In the Aegean, ferries link Athens (Piraeus) to the Cyclades and the Dodecanese.

Ferries depend on weather and season. In winter, services thin out or stop on smaller routes, and rough seas can cancel a crossing. If a flight or a hotel booking depends on the ferry, leave a buffer day, and check the operator's website for the timetable that applies on your dates.

Seasons and pacing a multi-country trip

Season changes what each region is good for, and it shapes the route as much as the map.

Summer suits the Atlantic and the north: long evenings in Scandinavia, the Baltic and the Alpine valleys, and cooler air along the coasts of northern Spain and Portugal. The Mediterranean is at its busiest and hottest then, and sightseeing in cities such as Rome, Athens or Seville is hard in the middle of the day. If you must go in summer, plan early starts, long middays and evening walks.

Spring and autumn are the easiest seasons for a Mediterranean loop or a central European line. Days are comfortable for walking, queues are shorter and rooms are easier to find. Alpine and island services may be running a reduced timetable at the edges of the season, so confirm what is open.

Winter suits cities with indoor attractions and Christmas markets, particularly in Germany, Austria and Central Europe, and it suits ski regions in the Alps and Pyrenees. It is a poor season for ferries on small routes, for the Greek islands and for hill walking.

Pacing the trip

Pace matters more than the number of stops. A workable rhythm for most travellers combines a few base cities with day trips, instead of a new bed every night. A base such as Vienna, Rome or Lisbon allows trips out and back, and you unpack once. A slower rhythm also leaves room for a bad-weather day, a missed connection or a place that deserves another night.

Put the hardest transfers early in the trip, while energy is high, and leave the last days for an easy exit to the airport. Plan one rest day for every few days of heavy sightseeing, and avoid ending the trip with an early flight from a city you reach late the night before.

Mistakes that cost days

Most problems on multi-country trips come from a short list of avoidable errors.

  • Underestimating border and transfer time. Even in Schengen, trains slow at the border and airports require early arrival. Outside it, queues for passport control can take longer than the journey itself.
  • Booking tight connections. When two trains are on separate tickets, a delay on the first is your problem, not the railway's. Leave a generous gap or buy one through ticket.
  • Ignoring local closing days. Many museums close on one day of the week, often Monday, and shops in southern Europe and in parts of Germany and Austria close on Sundays. Check before you structure a day around one site.
  • Arriving without a way to pay. Not every country uses the same currency, and some small places prefer cash. Carry a card and a small amount of local money, and keep a spare card separate from your wallet.
  • Booking the whole trip in advance with no slack. Fix the first and last nights and anything with a quota, such as popular museums, night trains, mountain railways or ferries in high season. Leave the middle flexible.
  • Forgetting insurance. Medical cover, cancellations and the rules on healthcare access abroad vary by nationality. Check the official guidance for your home country and read what your policy actually covers.
  • Carrying too much. Cobbled streets, stairs at stations and walk-up hotels punish large cases. One bag you can carry up a flight of stairs makes every transfer easier.
  • Eating on the main square. Restaurants beside the big sights are set up for passing trade. Walk a few streets away and look for places full of locals.

Before you book anything, write your route as a list of journeys, not a list of cities. Next to each journey note the mode, the rough duration and the one thing that could break it, then check the official site of the provider for that exact day. A trip with six honest journeys will outdo one with twelve optimistic stops.