By 
The train out of Delhi is already half an hour late when the platform announcement is drowned out by a porter shouting over a luggage trolley. Chai sellers weave between families sitting on bedrolls, and a monkey eyes someone's snack from the footbridge. Nobody around you looks worried. That calm, in the middle of apparent chaos, is the first thing a backpacker learns in India, and it is the key to enjoying the trip: the country works, but on its own terms and its own timing.
This guide builds a backpacking route around five places that suit that lesson: Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Mumbai and Varkala. It explains how they fit together, what is genuinely worth your time in each, and how to handle trains, food, manners and the occasional pushy stranger along the way.
Fitting the five together: route, timing and monsoon
On a map, three of these places form a tidy loop. Delhi, Agra and Jaipur make up the classic Golden Triangle, a well-worn circuit of Mughal and Rajput heritage that is easy to link by train or road. Mumbai sits on the western coast, a long way south of that loop. Varkala is further still, on the Kerala coast, facing the Arabian Sea. So the sensible order is north to south: Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, then a long hop to Mumbai, then another to Kerala. Ending on a beach is not an accident. After weeks of crowds and noise, a cliff-top café with nothing to do is exactly what the body asks for.
- Delhi: two or three days, because it is spread out.
- Agra: one night and two days, plus a day trip to Fatehpur Sikri if you want it.
- Jaipur: two or three days, since the sights are scattered between the old city and the hills.
- Mumbai: three days, because getting around takes time.
- Varkala: as many as you can spare.
Count the travel days too. The southern legs swallow whole days, so a three-week trip with five bases is comfortable and a one-week trip is not.
Reading the seasons
India does not have one climate. The broad pattern, which is all you need for planning, is that the cooler, drier months from late autumn to early spring suit the north and the west best. In the Golden Triangle, the hot season before the rains is punishing for sightseeing, with midday heat that makes forts and tombs miserable. The summer monsoon arrives from the south-west, reaches Kerala first, and then moves north and west, so Varkala and Mumbai see heavy rain well before Delhi and Jaipur do. During the rains, rivers rise, trains can be disrupted, and the sea off Varkala becomes rough and often unsafe for swimming. Winter in the north has its own catch: early-morning fog can slow trains and flights, and Delhi's air can be poor, which matters if you have a chest condition.
The cooler months give the best balance, but check forecasts close to your dates, since the monsoon does not follow a calendar exactly.
Delhi: the city of layers
Delhi is really several cities stacked on top of each other, and understanding that makes it far easier to navigate. Old Delhi is the walled Mughal capital. New Delhi is the planned, tree-lined imperial capital with its wide avenues and government buildings. A backpacker's Delhi is mostly these two.
Old Delhi
The Red Fort, or Lal Qila, is the great red sandstone fortress of the Mughal emperors, and its walls dominate the end of the old city. Inside are halls of public and private audience, pavilions and a small museum. Nearby, the Jama Masjid is a major mosque with a vast courtyard. Cover your shoulders and legs and remove your shoes.
Between them runs Chandni Chowk, the old main street and the beating heart of the area. It is narrow, loud and crowded, and most of the interest is in the lanes that lead off it: spice sellers, jewellers, wedding-card makers and food stalls. Go in the morning, carry little, and keep your phone in a front pocket. This is where to try chaat, parathas, kebabs and sweet jalebi.
Humayun's Tomb and the greener side
Humayun's Tomb is the antidote to the old city. It is a Mughal garden tomb of red sandstone and white marble set in formal gardens, and it is widely seen as a forerunner of the Taj Mahal. Visit it early or late, when the light is soft and the crowds thin. The nearby Lodhi Garden is another calm place, with old tombs between lawns.
In New Delhi, India Gate is the war memorial at the end of a broad ceremonial avenue, and it fills with families in the evening. Connaught Place, the circular colonnaded commercial district, is useful for banks, cafés and bookshops, though persistent touts hang about the entrances. The metro is the most reliable way to cross the city, avoiding the traffic, and its trains have a women-only carriage.
Agra: the Taj Mahal and what surrounds it
Most people arrive in Agra for the Taj Mahal and leave the same day. That is a mistake, partly because the town itself is hectic and rushed, and partly because the best moments around the Taj come at the edges of the day. The white marble mausoleum, built by a Mughal emperor for his wife, is far larger and more finely worked in person than any photograph suggests. Look closely at the inlay of semi-precious stones and the calligraphy around the entrances.
Go at opening time, when the marble takes on a soft pink and gold tone. Bags are checked, food and many electronics are restricted, and the monument has a weekly closing day, so confirm opening arrangements and ticket rules on the official site, not with a tout at the gate. Shoes are removed or covered before you step onto the main platform.
Beyond the Taj
Agra Fort, on the bend of the Yamuna river, is a vast red sandstone fortress and palace complex. Its halls, marble mosque and private apartments show how the Mughal court lived, and the river views take in the Taj. Give it a proper morning.
Across the river is Mehtab Bagh, a garden that looks straight back at the Taj, a calm place at sunset. The smaller tomb known as Itimad-ud-Daulah, nicknamed the baby Taj, is delicate and rarely crowded.
If you have a spare day, visit Fatehpur Sikri, the sandstone capital that a Mughal emperor built and then abandoned. Its palaces and the enormous Buland Darwaza gateway are well preserved, and the site feels quieter than Agra. Be firm with unofficial guides at the entrance.
Jaipur: the Pink City and its forts
Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, and the old walled city is painted in a uniform terracotta pink, which gives it its nickname. It was laid out on a grid, so it is easier to navigate than many Indian centres.
Amer Fort and the hills
The Amer Fort, often spelt Amber, stands on a hillside north of the city. Its courtyards, gateways and mirror-covered halls show off the Rajput style at its most ornate. You can reach it by road, and there are jeeps up the steep approach. Elephant rides to the top used to be common, but because of animal-welfare concerns many travellers now choose not to take them, and walking the ramp or taking a vehicle is a perfectly good alternative. Above the fort, Jaigarh is a larger, plainer fortress with sweeping views, and a walk between the two is rewarding if you start early.
The old city
Within the walls, the City Palace mixes Rajasthani and Mughal styles, with courtyards and galleries, and parts of it still used by the former ruling family. Next door, Jantar Mantar is an open-air observatory of enormous stone instruments built for measuring time and the stars.
The Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds, is the famous pink sandstone facade of tiny latticed windows. It is best seen from a café opposite, in the early morning when the light hits it directly, rather than by queuing to go inside.
The markets, especially Johari Bazaar for jewellery and Bapu Bazaar for textiles and shoes, are where the old city is most alive. Bargaining is expected, and claims about gemstone quality or export schemes from friendly strangers deserve caution. For food, try dal baati churma, the Rajasthani dish of lentils, baked wheat balls and sweet crumbled wheat, and a cooling lassi.
Mumbai: the city that never stops moving
Mumbai is a long, narrow city on a peninsula, and the old colonial core in the south is the most walkable part for visitors.
Colaba and the Gateway
The Gateway of India, a stone arch on the waterfront, is the symbol of the city and the place where boats leave for Elephanta Island, home to a set of ancient rock-cut cave temples. The area around it, Colaba, is where many backpackers base themselves, with guesthouses, cafés and the Causeway market. Touts selling boat trips are persistent here, so pick your own operator and check what is included.
Walking north brings you to the Kala Ghoda district, with galleries, bookshops and cafés, then to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the Victorian Gothic railway station that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still a working terminal. In the evening, Marine Drive, the curving seafront promenade lined with Art Deco buildings, fills with people watching the sea. The old Irani cafés in the south are worth finding for a cup of tea and a bun maska.
The local trains
The suburban railway is the city's lifeline, and a ride is an experience in itself. Trains are packed in the morning and evening rush, and passengers hang from open doors, so avoid peak hours with a rucksack. Outside the rush they are an efficient and very cheap way to move north and south. Carriages differ by class, and there are ladies' compartments, which women travelling alone often find a calmer choice. Know your stop before boarding, because trains do not wait.
Food on the street
Mumbai's street food is the real reason to eat on foot. Vada pav is a fried potato fritter in a soft bread roll with chutney, and pav bhaji is spiced mashed vegetables served with buttered bread. Bhel puri is a crunchy mix of puffed rice, onion and tamarind chutney eaten at the beach. Crawford Market and the surrounding lanes are a crash course in spices, fruit and traders.
Varkala: cliffs, sea and slowing down
Varkala is a small coastal town in Kerala where the beach sits below a long red laterite cliff, with a path along the top lined with cafés and yoga studios. It is relaxed and a little bohemian, but it is also a working pilgrimage town, so keep a sense of proportion.
The cliff and the beaches
The North Cliff is where most of the cafés and accommodation are, and the walk along it is the main activity, especially at sunset when the whole terrace faces the water. The beach known as Papanasam is considered sacred, and Hindus come to perform rituals for departed relatives, so avoid photographing worshippers without asking.
The sea here has strong currents, and conditions change with the seasons. Swim near lifeguards, avoid the water when it is rough, and take local warnings seriously, particularly during the rains.
Temples, food and getting there
The Janardhana Swami temple in the old town is an active Hindu temple, and non-Hindus may be restricted from some areas, so ask before entering. Kerala food is a pleasure: fresh fish, coconut curries, appam, parotta and the full vegetarian meal served on a banana leaf. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, has the nearest airport, and the backwaters around Alleppey and the port city of Kochi are the natural next stops.
Trains, flights and buses between the cities
Between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, the legs are comfortable by train or road. Between Jaipur, Mumbai and Kerala the distances are far longer, and most travellers combine overnight trains with a flight.
Trains and classes
The railway network is the backbone of the country, and long-distance trains are comfortable if you book the right class. Seats and berths are sold in several categories, from unreserved carriages and non-air-conditioned sleeper class up to air-conditioned chair cars and air-conditioned sleeping berths in two- and three-tier layouts, with a first-class option at the top. Backpackers usually choose an air-conditioned sleeping class for overnight journeys, since it is cleaner, quieter, and has curtains and bedding. Unreserved carriages are crowded and best avoided with luggage.
Tickets for popular routes sell out well ahead, and you may see a waiting list or a reservation-against-cancellation status. Book as early as the system allows through the official railway service, and check whether your ticket is confirmed or waiting-list before you rely on it. Trains do run late, particularly in winter fog, so keep a spare buffer before any flight, and lock your bag to the berth at night.
Flights and buses
For the longest gaps, such as Jaipur or Delhi to Mumbai or Mumbai to Kerala, a flight can save a day of travel, and domestic fares are often reasonable when booked ahead. Buses, both state-run and private, serve routes the trains do not, and sleeper buses run overnight. They are cheaper but less predictable, so use them for shorter hops, and avoid arriving in a new city in the small hours without a pre-arranged lift.
Visas, health and eating without regrets
Entry rules
Most visitors from the United Kingdom need a visa before travelling, and many apply online for an electronic visa in advance. The categories, validity, fees and rules change, so do not rely on a guide, including this one. Read the current instructions on the official Indian government visa pages and the UK government travel advice for India, and check your passport validity.
Staying well
Speak to a travel clinic or your GP well before departure, since recommended vaccinations and malaria advice depend on where you go and when. Pack oral rehydration salts, antiseptic supplies and insect repellent, and make sure your insurance covers medical treatment.
Drink only sealed bottled water or water you have properly purified, and avoid ice of unknown origin. Be careful with raw salads and unpeeled fruit washed in tap water. Clean hands before eating matter more than almost anything on your plate.
Street food habits
You do not have to avoid street food, and you would miss the best of the country if you did. Choose stalls with a steady stream of local customers and food cooked fresh and served hot. Start gently in the first days with cooked food. If you get a stomach upset, rest, drink plenty of fluids with rehydration salts, and seek medical help if symptoms are severe, include blood, or do not improve.
Manners, touts and travelling alone
Etiquette that matters
India is a mix of faiths and customs, and a few habits will earn you goodwill almost everywhere:
- Shoes off at temples, mosques, gurdwaras and many homes. Slip-on sandals make this easy.
- Cover up. Shoulders and knees should be covered at religious sites, and light, loose cotton is more comfortable than shorts or tight clothing anyway. Carry a scarf for head coverings where needed.
- Use your right hand for eating, passing money and greeting, since the left is traditionally considered unclean.
- Ask before photographing people, worshippers and ceremonies, and respect signs that forbid it.
- Avoid public displays of affection. They are not the norm and can attract unwanted attention.
Scams and touts
Most people you meet are friendly and honest, but tourist hotspots attract a few predictable tricks. At stations and airports, a stranger may tell you your hotel is closed, that the road is blocked, or that the ticket office has moved, then steer you to a commission shop or an agent. Drivers may take you to places you did not ask for, and a guide may attach himself to you at a monument and demand payment afterwards.
The defences are simple. Book your first night in advance and know the route. Use official ticket counters, not a helpful stranger. Agree prices first, and if something feels wrong, politely refuse and keep walking. A firm, friendly no works better than an argument.
Women travelling alone
Many women travel India alone and have a rewarding time, and a few practical habits make it easier. Dress modestly in loose, long clothing, which also helps with sun and mosquitoes. Arrive in daylight where possible, share your plans with someone at home, use women-only metro coaches and ladies' compartments on local trains, and avoid walking alone late at night in quiet areas. Staring is common, so sunglasses and an unhurried manner help. Trust your instincts, and do not feel obliged to be polite to someone who is making you uneasy.
Before you book any train or visa, put the five stops on a map in route order, count the travel days between them, and check the official visa and railway pages for current rules. That single hour of planning is what separates a smooth trip from a stressful one.
