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Three days into the Angkor temples, the pattern is familiar: an early start, hot stone underfoot, a crowd at every famous doorway and a tuk-tuk ride back to town with dust in your hair. Then someone mentions that an hour or so beyond Banteay Srei there is a forest stream with Hindu gods carved into its bed, and that on the sacred mountain above it families picnic beside a waterfall. That is the moment most visitors discover the other side of Cambodia.
This guide covers the waterfalls that are genuinely worth the journey, from the carved riverbeds near Siem Reap to the misty plateau above Kampot and the red-earth provinces of the north-east. It explains how the season changes each site, how to get there, what to wear at sacred places and the one safety rule that matters more here than almost anywhere else.
Rainy season or dry season: how the falls change
Cambodia has two seasons that matter for waterfalls: the rainy season, when the monsoon fills every stream, and the dry season, when many of them shrink to a trickle. Choosing between them is a real trade-off rather than a simple right answer.
The rainy season
This is when the falls look the way they do in photographs. Water thunders over the ledges, the forest is a deep green and the air around the plunge pools is cool. The cost is access. Jungle paths turn to slick mud, laterite roads in the north-east become deep red ruts, and swimming holes can be fast, cold and murky after a downpour. Afternoon storms are common, so the morning is the time to travel.
The dry season
Roads are firmer, trails are easier and the water that remains is calmer and clearer. Some sites are better in the dry season: at Kbal Spean, the carvings in the riverbed are only fully visible when the water drops. Others are disappointing: Popokvil on Bokor Mountain and several smaller falls can be reduced to a thin thread over bare rock.
The shoulder weeks
The weeks just after the rains ease are often the sweet spot, with good flow and drying paths. Conditions vary from one province to the next, so ask your guesthouse or driver what the water is doing before you commit to a long drive.
- Want drama and greenery: go in the rainy season, start early and accept the mud.
- Want to see carvings and swim safely: go in the dry season and choose larger falls.
- Travelling with children or limited mobility: the dry season makes every trail on this list easier.
Kbal Spean: the River of a Thousand Lingas
Kbal Spean sits on the forested slopes of the Kulen hills, north-east of Siem Reap and beyond the temple of Banteay Srei. Its name means "head of the bridge", after a natural sandstone arch over the stream, but most people know it as the River of a Thousand Lingas. During the Angkor period, sculptors carved the riverbed itself, turning the flowing water into something sacred as it passed on towards the temples on the plain.
What you will see
The stream bed is covered in rows of small carved lingas, the stylised symbols of Shiva, set in neat grids under the water. Along the banks and on boulders are larger relief carvings: Vishnu reclining on the serpent Ananta with Brahma rising from a lotus at his navel, and Shiva with his consort Uma seated on the bull Nandi. Some figures have been damaged by looters, and gaps in the rock show where pieces were cut away. At the end of the carved section there is a small waterfall and pool.
The walk
From the car park, a marked trail climbs steadily through the forest to the carvings. It is uphill most of the way, with roots, rocks and a few steeper steps, and most reasonably fit walkers reach the top in under an hour. It is shaded, but humid, so bring more water than you think you need. Shoes with grip matter far more than any other kit, because the rocks around the stream are smooth and often wet.
Timing and tickets
Go early. The trail stops admitting walkers earlier in the day than the main temples close, and the climb is far more pleasant before the midday heat. Ticketing for Kbal Spean has been linked to the Angkor pass, but entry rules and fees change, so check the official Angkor ticketing website before you set out.
The simplest plan is a single day out from Siem Reap: Kbal Spean first thing, Banteay Srei on the way back, and a stop at one of the roadside stalls selling palm sugar on the return. In the rainy season, be ready for the carvings to be partly hidden under the water. That is the trade-off for a fuller waterfall.
Phnom Kulen: the sacred mountain and its waterfall
Above Kbal Spean rises Phnom Kulen, a long sandstone plateau that Cambodians regard as one of the holiest places in the country. Khmer tradition holds that the Angkorian kingdom was founded here, when King Jayavarman II was proclaimed a universal monarch on the mountain. Today the plateau is a national park and a pilgrimage site, and it feels quite different from the temple circuit below.
The reclining Buddha and the riverbed
Near the top, the pagoda of Preah Ang Thom is built around a huge reclining Buddha carved directly into a sandstone boulder. Pilgrims climb the stairs to make offerings, and the atmosphere is devout rather than touristic. Nearby, Phnom Kulen has its own carved riverbed, with lingas and figures cut into the stream in the same tradition as Kbal Spean.
The waterfall
The plateau's waterfall comes in two parts. The upper fall is smaller and sits close to the food stalls and picnic platforms. A path and steps lead down to the larger lower fall, a broad curtain of water dropping into a pool where people swim. In the rainy season it is powerful and spray-filled. In the dry season it is gentler, and the pool is more inviting.
At weekends and on public holidays the site fills with Cambodian families, hammocks strung between trees and big shared picnics. It is lively and good-natured, but if you want quiet, go on a weekday morning.
Fees, roads and respect
Phnom Kulen is not covered by the Angkor pass. It has its own entry fee, which has been notably higher for foreign visitors than for Cambodians and has changed several times, so confirm the current arrangement on the official tourism channels or with your driver before you go. The road up the mountain is steep and narrow, and traffic rules on it have varied, so leave the driving to someone who knows it.
This is a sacred site, so cover your shoulders and knees, remove your shoes before entering the pagoda, and avoid pointing your feet towards Buddha images. Swimwear belongs at the pool, not on the walk to the shrine.
Popokvil Falls and Bokor Mountain
On the south coast, the town of Kampot sits on a quiet river with the long ridge of Bokor Mountain behind it. A paved road now winds up through the forest of the national park to the plateau, where the air is noticeably cooler and fog can roll in within minutes. Popokvil Falls lie on this plateau, a short walk from the road.
The falls
Popokvil drops in two tiers over broad slabs of rock, and its name refers to the clouds that so often swirl around it. It is a pleasant rather than spectacular sight, and it depends heavily on recent rain. After a wet spell the water spreads across the rock in wide sheets. In a long dry spell, there may be very little to see. Paddling in the shallow pools is possible, but the rock is slippery and the drop below the upper tier is real, so stay well back from the edge.
The rest of the mountain
Most people combine the falls with the plateau's other sights. The shell of the old Bokor Palace, a French colonial hotel, and a weathered Catholic church survive from the days when Bokor was a hill station. There is also the pagoda of Wat Sampov Pram, with wide views towards the coast, and the large statue of Lok Yeay Mao, a protective spirit honoured by Cambodian travellers. A large modern resort development has changed parts of the plateau, so do not expect untouched wilderness.
Making a day of it
Bring a light layer and a rain jacket, because the top can be cool, windy and wet even when Kampot is hot. Hire a car with a driver or join a small-group trip from town. Riding a motorbike yourself is possible on the paved road, but fog, rain and steep bends make it a poor choice for inexperienced riders. Back at sea level, the region is known for Kampot pepper, and a visit to a pepper farm or a crab lunch at the seaside market in nearby Kep rounds off the day well.
Ratanakiri: Katieng, Cha Ong and the red-earth north-east
For waterfalls that feel truly wild, head to Ratanakiri, the far north-eastern province bordering Laos and Vietnam. The provincial town of Banlung is the base, and the landscape around it is rolling hills, rubber and cashew plantations, forest and roads of bright red earth. The journey from Phnom Penh is long, so this region suits travellers with time to spare.
Katieng
Katieng, also spelled Ka Tieng, is a short ride from Banlung. The water falls over a rock overhang into a pool, and a path leads behind the curtain of water. Thick vines hang down the cliff, and local teenagers sometimes swing on them. Treat that as a spectator sport: the rock is wet and the pool's depth changes with the season.
Cha Ong
Cha Ong drops into a narrow, rocky gorge, and in the drier months you can scramble down and walk behind the fall. It is one of the more dramatic settings in the province. In the rainy season the descent becomes slippery and the force of the water makes going behind it unwise.
Kachanh and Yeak Laom
Kachanh, another fall near Banlung, sits in the forest and has a strong local following. Most visitors also spend time at Yeak Laom, a near-circular crater lake surrounded by forest, with wooden platforms for swimming. It is managed with the involvement of the local indigenous community, and it is often a dependable place to swim in the province when the waterfall pools are churning.
People and practicalities
Ratanakiri is home to several indigenous groups, including the Tampuan, Jarai and Kreung, whose villages, languages and beliefs differ from those of the lowland Khmer majority. Some forests and hills here are spiritually important to them. If a guide says not to enter an area or touch something, take that seriously.
Red dust coats everything in the dry season and the same roads turn to mud in the wet, so carry a scarf or face covering and a plastic bag for your camera. Elephant rides were once offered near some falls in the province. Give any such offer a miss: riding causes real welfare problems for the animals, and there are better ways to spend the day.
Mondulkiri, Kirirom and the south-west
Several other regions have waterfalls worth fitting into a longer trip, each with a different character.
Bou Sra in Mondulkiri
Mondulkiri, south of Ratanakiri, is a province of grassy hills and pine-dotted ridges that feels unlike the rest of Cambodia. From the small town of Sen Monorom, a drive through the countryside reaches Bou Sra, a broad fall that drops in tiers through the forest. It is a popular outing for Cambodian visitors, with steps down to viewing points and stalls nearby. Closer to town, the smaller Romanear falls make an easy short trip.
Mondulkiri is home to the Bunong people and to elephant projects that vary a great deal in how they treat the animals. Look for places where you watch elephants walk and forage freely in the forest, without riding, bathing sessions or performances, and ask how the animals are housed and what work they do. If the answers are vague, walk away.
Kirirom National Park
West of Phnom Penh, Kirirom National Park sits on a plateau of pine forest that was once a royal retreat. It is cooler than the capital, easy to reach in a day or overnight, and has small seasonal waterfalls and trails. Nearby, the Chambok community-based ecotourism site leads a forest walk to a tall waterfall, with income going to the surrounding villages. Both are busy with city families at weekends and quiet midweek.
Tatai in Koh Kong
Further west, in Koh Kong province near the Thai border, the Tatai river runs out of the Cardamom Mountains through mangroves and forest. The Tatai waterfall is a wide, low cascade over rock shelves, best seen when water levels are moderate. Boat trips on the river are the usual way to explore the area. If you are crossing overland from Thailand, this makes a natural first stop, and Important Things to Consider Before Traveling to Thailand covers the other side of the border.
Getting there and staying safe
Most of these falls are well away from towns, and planning the transport is half the work.
Choosing your bases
- Siem Reap for Kbal Spean, Banteay Srei and Phnom Kulen, which together can fill one or two days.
- Kampot for Bokor Mountain and Popokvil, with Kep close by.
- Banlung for the Ratanakiri falls and Yeak Laom.
- Sen Monorom for Bou Sra and Romanear.
- Phnom Penh for Kirirom and Chambok.
Cluster your waterfall days by region rather than zigzagging across the country. Siem Reap to Kampot is a long day on the road, and the north-east is a separate trip in its own right. From Phnom Penh, travellers heading on into Vietnam can also follow the Mekong south, and A Travel Guide to the Mekong Delta picks up the route from there.
Getting to each site
A tuk-tuk works for Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei from Siem Reap, though the ride is long and dusty, so bring a scarf. For Phnom Kulen, Bokor and anything in the north-east, a car with a local driver is the sensible choice, because the roads are steep, unpredictable or both. Agree the route, the stops and the price clearly before you leave, and confirm whether entry fees are included. Your guesthouse can usually arrange a driver it knows.
Landmines: stay on the path
Decades of conflict left Cambodia with a serious landmine and unexploded ordnance problem, and some of the forested hills on this list, including the Kulen area, saw fighting in the past. Much has been cleared, but not everything. Stay on marked trails and well-trodden paths, do not wander into scrub for a better photo, and never touch anything that looks like metal debris. Red warning signs with a skull mark known hazards. If a local guide tells you an area is off-limits, believe them.
What to carry
- Shoes or sports sandals with real grip. Flip-flops are a common cause of falls on wet rock.
- Plenty of water, sun protection and insect repellent.
- Clothes that cover shoulders and knees for pagodas and shrines, plus swimwear and a quick-dry towel.
- A light rain jacket, and an extra layer for Bokor and Mondulkiri.
- Small notes for drinks, snacks and parking, since change can be scarce at remote sites.
- A dry bag or plastic bag for your phone and camera.
Swim only where locals swim, check the depth before jumping, and stay out of the water after heavy rain, when currents strengthen and the water clouds over quickly. Leave nothing behind, because rubbish at popular picnic spots is a growing problem.
Plan Kbal Spean for an early start in the dry season, save the big flowing falls for the rainy months, and keep to the marked path at every site on the list.
Official sources and further reading
Opening times, entry rules and prices change, so check them on the official sites before you travel:
- Tourism of Cambodia: The Ministry of Tourism's official site.
